「注染」How to: Yukata Pt.2 / Chuusen dyeing


※Continued from my previous article / 前回の記事の続きです

To continue the journey of my original yukata let us take a look at the next step:
Fabric dyeing. In this case the traditional Japanese dyeing method called:


Chuusen (注染)

This craft of dyeing has been invented in the Meiji period (1868-1912) in Osaka and is a very practical way of dyeing a long bolt of fabric at once.
My fabric was dyed in Hamamatsu though.


The steps look like this:

① Adding of paste
For kimono and yukata usually 12 meters of 40 cm wide fabric will be used. In the process of Chuusen dyeing for yukata, white cotton will be laid out on a special table. The previously cut stencil will be placed on top of the fabric and a glue paste will be applied onto the stencil and pulled across. Think of it like silk screen dyeing, just with a paste instead.
Once one meter is done, the stencil will be lifted and more white fabric will be folded on top. In the exact same location (on the fresh fabric) the paste will be added and so on until all 12 meters are continuously full with the paste.

① 糊を乗せる
着物と浴衣の反物は12m × 40cmくらいです。注染の場合は白い綿を使用、特別のテーブルに敷いて、前回彫りました1mくらいの型紙を上に載せます。糊はヘラを使って、型を通して置きます。反物の生地を折って、糊をつぎのレイヤーに置いて、その工程を繰り返します。

注染 Chuusen dye SALZ

注染 Chuusen dye SALZ
The parts which shall remain white will be covered in paste so the dye does not stick to them.

② Adding of sawdust
To make the paste firm and well sticking, the other side will be covered in sawdust.

② おがくずをかける

© https://www.asahisenko.jp

③ More pasting
The folded fabric stash will be placed in the dyeing area and a protective cloth placed on top. More paste will be applied like a fence to separate areas from each other which shall be dyed in different colour.

③ 糊の土手

注染 Chuusen dye SALZ
The design of my course colleague with the border of paste.

④ Dyeing
Different colours will be mixed and prepared in buckets according to the customers request. The water-like dye will be inserted into some kind of watering cans and poured onto the fabric. With the help of some kind of sucking compression of this special table, the dye will be sucked through and absorbed by all layers.
Dye will be added gradually and sucked through until the preferred colours are achieved.

④ 染める

注染 Chuusen dye SALZ

注染 Chuusen dye SALZ

© https://www.ryokan-yukata.jp

⑤ Rinsing
After the dyeing processed finished, the fabric will be washed (traditionally by hand) to remove the glue paste and rinse out the excess dye to prevent bleeding in the future. Once hand washing is done they will be placed into a several meters long wash basin which has flowing water to imitate a river.
In the old times fabric was always hung into a streaming river for a while to rinse the dye out.

⑤ 水洗い

© https://www.chusen.co.jp

⑥ Drying
Once the rinsing is completed, the fabric will be spun into a tumbler to remove the water. Then the long fabric will be hung up high under the roof or outside in the wind to completely dry off

⑥ 乾かす

注染 Chuusen dye SALZ

⑦ Rolling
The fabric then will be ironed I believe and rolled up into a fabric bolt.

⑦ 仕上げ

注染 Chuusen dye SALZ
The designs of our members round finished.

That fabric bolt then landed in my hands.
Unfortunately (as you might have noticed in the pictures) my fabric bolt was dyed in a completely different colour as desired. I am not sure what happened but I gave the data of the colour along with an explanation but instead of teal they dyed a straight blue.
So I had to have my fabric re-dyed and lost another 1 month time..

Finally I got two fabric bolts in the right colour.

残念ながら、今回は希望の色と全然違う色に染めあがってしまいまして・・ 再度染めてもらいました。

注染 Chuusen dye SALZ


Next I will show some pictures from the next step in the making: Sewing!


Leave a comment

All blog comments are checked prior to publishing
The cookie settings on this website are set to 'allow all cookies' to give you the very best experience. Please click Accept Cookies to continue to use the site.
You have successfully subscribed!
This email has been registered